Santa Fe New Mexican: Sign of the dove
The mourning dove memorialized in Mexican songs like “Cucurrucucú Paloma” and “Paloma Negra” may symbolize wild grief and heartsickness, but there’s no depression at the vibrant new Paloma Restaurant. Various businesses have tried to make over this somewhat awkward rectangular space on the corner of Guadalupe Street and Montezuma Avenue — in recent years, it’s been home to the Swiss Bistro & Bakery and then 401 Fine Neighborhood Dining — but none has succeeded quite so charmingly as owner-manager Marja Martin.
Martin has gussied up the joint into a harmonious riot of Oaxacan textiles and art, complete with elegant light fixtures and shabby-chic touches like a distressed mirrored windowpane that expands the small dining room. The six-seater bar is a vision of exposed brick juxtaposed with majolica tile, while retro Acapulco-style chairs and leather banquettes add some flair to the seating. The overall effect recalls understated eateries in places like Los Angeles and Mexico City’s hip La Condesa district. Even the bathroom is worth the trip — with its calming aqua walls and ornate white dove mural on a frosted-glass window, I once absurdly envisioned myself curling up on its cushy bench with the novel in my purse.